Membership comes with full access to all of our tools – though some of our tools require a quick one-on-one training session based on your familiarity.

Please click through our list and drill-down to what you’re interested in!

CNC Tools

Shopbot
5’x10′ Shopbot
3/4 hp spindle
Excellent at wood, foam, plastic. Aluminum is possible slowly with care.
Vacuum Hold Down for sheet goods
Professional Dust Extraction setup
Bridgeport
Manual, Conversational CNC, or G-code
100w C02 Laser Cutter
24″x30″ bed
Cuts wood, plastic
Engraves anodization great, engraves metal poorly
Prusa 3D Printer
We maintain a working 3d printer at all times
We also have several less-working 3d printers that could be yours!
Silhoutte vinyl cutter
16″ width custom monochrome stickers
This is how we do all the logos on Doomba!

Carpentry

Tablesaw
Cheap delta saw.
Sled, fence, nothing too fancy
Bandsaw
Sweet oldschool bandsaw.
12″ depth, 20″ throat
Compound Miter Saw
Dewalt, compound miter
Not sliding, but still a workhorse
Scroll Saw
Router Table
With fence, adjustable height
36″x26″ table
Hand Routers
Plunge and trim routers
Nailers
Dewalt Cordless Framing nailer
Pnuematic 18″ brad nailer
Dewalt 23″ headless pin nailer
Belt Sander
36″x6″ belts
Dedicated wood-only
Planer
Detla 12″ width
Jointer
Delta 6″ width
IMO the scariest tool in the shop but we offer training

Metalworking

Welders
MIG (120v)
Tig (240v), also does stick
Stick (120v / cordless)
500# Welding table for layout, fab, etc.
Plasma Cutter
Hydraulic tube bender
Harbor Freight special
Hydraulic Press
20 Ton
Angle Grinders
Corded
Cordless 20v and 60v
Bench Grinders
Anvil
Forge
Mostly for Aluminum casting
Sandboxes for molds
Crucibles, etc
BandSaws
Portaband
Oldschool 12″ depth, 20″ throat – make sure to change belts for steel, but it will eat aluminum all day.
Belt Sander
Dedicated belt sander for metalworking.

Machinist Tools

Bridgeport
DRO or CNC options (see above)
Lathe
Sharpe 13×40 with DRO
Mini-lathe
Shureline? Jewelers lathe, not sure the details
Drill Press
1hp 3-phase beast
Dial Indicators, Calipers, Micrometers, Etc

Electrical

Dedicated Electronics Room
Soldering irons
Hot air reflow station
Power Supplies
Adjustable up to 36v/5amp
Oscilloscope
Electronic Load
High-voltage tester
Adjustable up to 4kv / 5mA
Stereo Microscope with camera

Miscellaneous:

Air compressor
Forklift
We do require a quick training session, but we will certify you to use our forklift!
Hand tools
Literally all of them. Do you need some screwdrivers or sockets? Please steal some.
Power Tools
A great selection of Dewalt power tools
Every size of impact wrench
Circ saws, recips, jigsaws, etc
4 different types of sanders
Oscillating multitool. Dremel. 4 different drills.
A power caulk-gun. I didn’t even know that was a thing.

Automotive

2x Jacks
4x jackstands
Oil drain pans
Compression tester
Valve compressor
AC gauges

General

Bathroom
So women can come now. BRICE LINK THIS
Kitchenette
Fridge (beer)
Toaster-oven
Microwave
Utility Sink
Wifi
Flame Cabinet

Stock / materials

If you need a lot of something, you should buy it.
If you need a couple of something, we probably have it.
Nuts/Bolts/Screws
Fully stocked cabinet of hardware
Mostly English, but a fair bit of the smaller metric sizes
Wood
2×3/4/6/8 of various lengths, mostly under 3′
Plywood
Half sheets and sub-sheets of every thickness
Plexiglass
2×2 and smaller sheets
Steel tube, rod, etc
Up to 8′ length, random sizes
Just make sure nobody has a nametag on it and it’s fair game
80-20
There’s a full shelf of 2′ 80-20 aluminum and fittings. Have at.
Electronics
Resistors, capacitors, fets, connectors, relays, etc
The sorting is good, but not great.
Solvents
Acetone, Methanol, Paint Thinner, MEK
Lube
wd40, pb-blaster, moly, grease, etc
Paints & stains
Spray paints! 100 half cans that may or may not be clogged
Stains! A dozen different stains in various
Poly and acrylic clear coats!
Latex paint that might be congealed but is totally free regardless.

After doubling our power, and quadrupling our cooling we were excited to test-drive our new laser and push the limits… and it wasn’t that far beyond our old laser cutter. Which seems wrong – it should be twice as good!

So we started tinkering with the other variables, and we discovered that the volume of introduced air plays a huge part in how efficient the cut is. Too little air – like our current airbrush compressor – and we wouldn’t clear the soot from our cut. Then we tried too much air, and learned it would burn massive gashes through our material. But between 15-30psi the laser cuts so well it feels like cheating. We should have done this literally years ago.

*Technically, it’s Free

Air is free. We unplugged the cheap air-brush compressor that came with our laser, and connected the air line straight into our shop air compressor. While an air-compressor isn’t free, every shop should have one, they unlock so many options. If you have a laser cutter and no air compressor, forget about upgrading your laser, buy an air compressor. It is a supremely versatile tool, enabling all sorts of pneumatic tools, cleaning, cooling, and (surprisingly) laser upgrades.

Anyways… we shoved a blow-gun into the air port, and just like that we went from struggling through 1/4″ plywood to cutting 3/4″ plywood. I think it took six passes, but it’s still mind blowing. But I’m lazy and would rather not get a hand-cramp for every cut, so how do we make this more professional?

The $50 solution:

We started by brainstorming our ideal setup:
1) It still has to work without the air compressor,
2) If we add the compressor, it should only use the high-pressure air while lasing,
3) It needs to be idiot-proof

Then, we designed to the spec:
1) “It has to work without the air compressor”
We begin with two check valves. One to prevent air from from the air-brush compressor from escaping out the high-pressure port when the big compressor is detached, and one to prevent the high pressure air from damaging the weaker air-brush compressor.

2) “Without wasting pressure”
Next, we added an air solenoid. Every laser controller will provide a GPIO (General-Purpose-Input-Output) that indicates when the laser is firing. For us, it was called “Wind,” and it was a 24v tolerant port that connected to ground when the laser fired. So by wiring that to a 24v air solenoid we can limit airflow to when the laser is firing.

2b) Bonus light:
Because we have a 24v signal available, we decided we would use this to power a warning light to make sure everyone knew the laser was firing. And what better thing to light than the cut itself! So we added some LEDs to the enclosure to light the cut-in-progress. You could run these on the same 24v, but we fell down a rabbit hole and built a box to switch 120v using a solid-state relay.

3) “Idiot Proof”
Since we’re running a communal shop, we want this to be super easy to use. Which means we need to regulate our airflow independent of the compressor settings – because hooking up 120psi will pop the hoses off of the fittings and potentially start fires. In a solo-shop, you could just write a note by the port and manually adjust pressure. But for our communal and semi-production environment, we wanted the assurance provided by a secondary regulator. We stole ours from a dead air-compressor we found in a dumpster, but you can (of course), order one on amazon for $16: Please click one of the affiliate links**. This gives us a super-convenient “saved” setpoint for the laser – we set it to 20 psi for the best all-around performance, but it can be easily tweaked during a cut.

(Note: You want the solenoid valve before the regulator – that way your pressure isn’t limited by the narrow internal passages of the solenoid). And just like that, we’re now routinely cutting thicker wood, faster, and keeping our lens cleaner at the same time!

_{**Full disclosure: we link only products we actually use, and we have not tried this regulator}
*** I had to spend to spend forever photoshopping this AI diagram. Trying to get gpt to get all the arrows correct ended up with this:

A quick five-minute hack to use the external ammeter while retaining PC control of power settings

EDIT: MORE INVESTIGATION IN PROGRESS. DON’T TRUST THIS.

This article is for the Cloudray M100 Laser Power Supply, but it should apply across the entire M-series of Cloudray Supplies. Full Disclosure: This is an affiliate link. Even if you never intend to order a massive CO₂ laser, just clicking that link will still help us stay afloat – Thanks!

The power-supply comes with this sweet display screen, letting you know exactly how much power you’re actually running! Not necessary, but cool. The problem is that when this is plugged in, the knob on the left side will override the power-setting that your laser control software (lightburn, etc) is sending. Cloudray claims they have a switch on the PSU itself to disable this, but our supply shipped without said switch.

Luckily, this is easily remedied with a pair of diagonal-cutters and a tiny screwdriver!

• Remove the knob itself by pulling straight off
• Insert the screwdriver to remove the back panel
• Remove the PCB/Screen assembly from the housing
  • Gently push on the screen
  • Pry the retaining tab back just far enough for the pcb/screen assembly to move slightly
  • Repeat this for each retaining tab, working around the screen multiple times
  • Once both the PCB and then the Screen have passed the tabs, the assembly will slide free
• Using your diagonal cutters, snip the center tab of the potentiometer
  • You can also desolder the entire potentiometer from the PCB if desired
• Use the screwdriver to bend these tabs for additional clearance
• Reassemble by gently sliding the pcb/screen back into the housing, and pop in the back plate
  • Make sure the PCB slides past the retaining tabs
• Done!
  
  

And of course, we have pictures for all of this:

Bonus: How did we figure this out? / Why does this work?

We knew there were only two options for the layout of this control board. Either:

• 1) There is a custom microcontroller on this control board
• 2) This board has only an off-the-shelf display driver, and passes the other signals through

First, we checked the IC on the board…. if we could look up a part number that would be a giveaway – however, it was completely blanked out. So we investigated, trying to figure out where the signal from the potentiometer (signal is always the middle pin, with V+ and GND on the two sides) was connected to. Probing with a multimeter, we found a direct connection (0.2Ω – close enough!) between the center pin and pin 4 on the RJ45 jack! This points to the pass-through option, so we snipped it – worst case, we’d have to solder it back. We put it all back together and…. we were right!